Woven fabric

Fabric traditionally made by shuttling the weft back and forth through the warp. Generally there are obvious side tissue on both sides, whether grey cloth or finished cloth, are flat. The knitted fabric is usually cylindrical, and the finished product becomes flat after open shaping.

Concept of yarn count density

Fabrics vary so much, how to represent different specifications? Yarn count density is an important index.

Yarn count: the general contact is British, the specific definition is: cotton yarn British count calculation: the common weight of a pound of cotton yarn, a few 840 yards, known as a few British. For example: including 32 840 yards, it is called 32 British, and so on, the higher the number, the finer the yarn. The English branch is usually denoted by s.

There is also the Daniel index, which indicates the thickness of the fiber, as opposed to the English branch, the higher the fiber, the thicker. Specifically defined as: fixed length 9000 m, weight 1 g =1 D, if 9000 m long fiber weighs 70 g, then 70D. It is 76s in English

Daniel is used to describe finer fibers, such as nylon, polyester, spandex, and so on

Density: The number of warp and weft threads per inch is called density. We have a density mirror, and the size in the box is 1 ", and the density is what you count.

For example, 20x16/128x60 means that the warp is 20s and the weft is 16s. There are 128 warp and 68 wefts per inch. This is only the most basic fabric, and there are many more complex fabrics, yarn density representation is correspondingly more complex.

Generally speaking, the density of non-elastic fabrics refers to the yarn count density of grey fabric, and the density of finished products will change accordingly. Most non-elastic fabrics have a blank width of 47 "or 63", while their finished fabrics have a width of 44 "or 58". Take 128x60/20x16 as an example, 47 "x 128/44" =136. So the finished warp density of this cloth should be about 136. However, the weft density does not change after the finished product, at most 1-2 threads.

Grey fabric in the process of dyeing and finishing after layer treatment to lose some weight, so the finished yarn will be 1-2 thinner than the grey fabric yarn. Be sure to know when you're testing.

Elastic cloth is generally the density of the finished product.

The concept of various organizational structures

In addition to the density of yarn, there is another important indicator of what a piece of cloth is like, and that is the fabric structure. Generally speaking, there are mainly the following kinds:

1. Plain weave fabric, warp and weft yarn is interwoven, is the most basic weaving mode. The thinner, lighter plain fabric is called poplin, and the thicker plain fabric is called canvas.

2. Twill fabric, there are 3 common, 2/1, 3/1, 2/2, a few up and down refers to the rise and fall of the warp. 3/1 is when the warp floats on top of 3 weft, sinks under 1 weft, and floats on top of 3 weft. This kind of fabric is called yarn or thread.

3. Satin fabrics, generally 4/1, also have 5/3, this is more complex, as long as you understand the strong surface luster of this kind of cloth can be this property. Direct tribute is more.

4. dobby: Dobby is completed by more complex dobby looms, usually with small jacquard Dobby. Such as grid, wick bar, herringbone oblique, satin bar, are small jacquard.

5. Velvet plants, mainly corduroy, velvet. The main characteristic of corduroy is that the weft density is much higher than the warp density. Because the weft yarn goes through the opening and becomes a pile yarn.

Different dyeing and finishing methods

Generally speaking, there are two ways of dyeing and finishing woven fabrics, one is dyeing, the other is yarn-dyed.

Dyeing refers to the first woven grey cloth, and then sent to the dyeing factory, after desizing, burning, boiling, mercerizing, (grinding) dyeing, shaping, preshrinking, soft and other processes to obtain color cloth. Most of the printing process is the same, mainly changing the dyeing process to printing.

Dyeing is also divided into long car continuous dyeing and cylinder dyeing two kinds.

Yarn-dyed fabric refers to dyed yarn and then warping, sizing, weaving and finishing to obtain finished fabric. Yarn-dyed fabric to check, stripe pattern mainly.

The difference between different dyes

There are basically four kinds of dyes, the main ones being reactive dyed (also known as reactive dye) and vat dyed (also known as reducing dye). The color fastness of Shilin is the best. But it's important to note that one dye doesn't cover every spectrum, and some colors can only be made with one dye, such as navy blue, and only with activity. The color spectrum of shilin is mainly medium and light color.

There is another kind of paint, after washing fade badly, often used for the pursuit of stale feeling after washing guests. Colour fastness is very poor before washing, but fair after washing.

There are vulcanized dyes, basic elimination, used for corduroy black, poor color fastness, and has a strong corrosion effect on cotton fibers. Tear strength is very poor over time.

The main test indicators

It is divided into two categories: physical index and color fastness

Physical indicators include: yarn density, weight, tensile strength, tearing strength, PH, shrinkage rate, composition, flame retardant and so on.

Color fastness includes washing fading, dipping, rubbing, lighting, chlorine bleaching, non-chlorine bleaching, actual washing color change, etc.

Test on general customers allow physical indicators only do one color and can save costs.

Generally, the test cloth is specially treated to ensure that it passes.

Composition of price

Dyed printed fabric: price of grey fabric + price of dyed and finished blank products. The price of grey fabric consists of the cost of raw materials of yarn plus weaving costs.

Yarn-dyed fabric: yarn raw material price + dyeing cost + weaver cost + finishing cost

Approximate production cycle

Take the quantity of 30,000 meters as an example to tell the approximate cycle:

Dyed prints: For ready-made grey fabrics, about 2 weeks. For regular woven grey fabric, 35-40 days.

Yarn-dyed fabric: about 35 days.