1Plain fabric
This kind of product is woven with plain grain or plain grain change organization, with many interweaving points, solid texture, flat surface, the same appearance effect on the front and back. There are many varieties of plain fabric, when using different thickness of warp and weft yarn, different warp and weft density and different twist, twist, tension, color yarn, you can weave a variety of different appearance effects of fabric.
Some common plain cotton fabrics are described below:
(1) Plain cloth
Plain cloth is a plain fabric made of pure cotton, chemical fiber and blended yarn.
Coarse plain cloth, also known as coarse cloth. The warp and weft yarn is made of cotton yarn of more than 32 size (less than 18 English branches). It is characterized by rough, thick cloth body, cloth cotton knot more, thick, strong and durable. Coarse cloth is mainly used for clothing interlining or printing and dyeing to make clothing and furniture cloth. In remote mountainous areas and coastal fishing villages, coarse cloth is also used to make bedding, or dyed shirts and pants.
Plain cloth
Flat cloth, also known as city cloth. With 22-30 (26-20 British) medium cotton yarn as warp and weft yarn. It is characterized by a tight structure, smooth and plump cloth, dense structure, solid texture, feel hard. Primary plain cloth is suitable for tie-dyeing and batik processing, and is also commonly used as interlining or three-dimensional cutting sample cloth. Dyed plain cloth is mostly used with casual shirts or smocks.
Fine flat cloth, also known as muslin. The fine plain cloth is made of cotton yarn of less than 19 gauge (more than 30 British yarn) as warp and weft yarn. It is characterized by thin, clean and soft cloth body, thin and compact texture, less impurities of cotton knot on the cloth surface, thin and thin cloth body. Usually processed into a variety of bleached cloth, color cloth and printed cloth, can be used for shirts and other clothing. In addition, plain fabric (also known as Balinese) with cotton yarn of up to 15 (40 or more) and thin plain fabric with fine (high) cotton yarn called glass yarn or Balinese yarn, which has good air permeability and is suitable for making summer coats, smocks or decorative fabrics such as curtains. Muslin is mostly used as a blank for bleachcloth, color cloth and flowery cloth.
(2) poplin
Poplin is the main variety of cotton cloth, both silk style, feel and appearance similar to silk, so called poplin. It is a kind of fine high-density cotton fabric. Poplin cloth surface texture is clear, full particles, smooth and close, feel crisp, smooth, printing and dyeing and yarn-dyed stripe and other color varieties.
Plain poplin
Poplin according to the weaving pattern, there are hidden strip hidden check poplin, satin strip satin check poplin, jacquard poplin, suitable for senior men's and women's shirts. The printing and dyeing process of natural poplin grey cloth is divided into bleached poplin, mixed poplin and printed poplin, etc. Printed poplin is usually used for women's and children's clothes in summer. According to the quality of the yarn used, there are combed poplin, there are general combed poplin, suitable for different grades of shirts and dresses.
(3) Balinese yarn
Balinese, which is different from poplin, has a very low density, it is a thin translucent plain fabric made of thin yarn with strong twist (more than 60 sticks) and has a high transparency, so it is also called "Balinese". Balinese yarn is thin, but with a twisted combed cotton yarn the fabric is transparent, comfortable to the touch, elastic, wet and air absorbent and has a strong body.
Balinese yarn
Balinese yarn in warp and weft, either both single or both strands. According to different processing, there are dyed glass yarn, bleached glass yarn, printed glass yarn, yarn-dyed jacquard glass yarn. Usually used for summer clothing cloth, such as women's summer dress, men's shirts, children's clothes, or handkerchiefs, veil and curtains, furniture cloth and other decorative cloth.
(4) hemp yarn
yarn
The raw material of hemp yarn is not hemp, nor is it cotton fabric mixed with hemp fiber. Instead, it is made of fine cotton yarn with tight twist to make warp and weft yarn, and woven with plain grain changing organization. It is a thin cotton fabric named for its cool and crisp. The change square organization is also known as the linen organization, so that the cloth is wide and narrow unequal straight convex stripes or a variety of strips, similar to the appearance of linen; And the fabric is light and smooth, flat and fine, less dense, breathable and comfortable, with the style of linen, so it is called "hemp yarn". However, due to its organizational structure, the zonal shrinkage rate is larger than the meridional shrinkage rate, which should be improved as far as possible. In addition to the pre-shrinkage of falling water, it is necessary to pay attention to the spare amount when sewing clothes. Hemp yarn can be bleached, dyed, printed, jacquard, yarn-dyed and so on. It is suitable for making men's and women's shirts, children's clothes, pajamas, skirts and handkerchiefs and decorative cloth. In recent years, the most common blended yarn in the market is polyester/cotton, polyester/linen, viscose/cotton.
(5) Canvas
canvas
Canvas is a kind of thick fabric, whose warp and weft yarns are made of multiple strands. It is usually made of plain weave, but also of heavy weft, twill and satin weave. It is called "canvas" because it was first used in sailing ships. The canvas is rough and stiff, tight and strong, strong and wear-resistant. It is used for men and women's autumn and winter coats, jackets, raincoats or down jackets. Because of its different yarn thickness, can be divided into coarse canvas and fine canvas two kinds, generally the former is used for covering, filtering, protection, shoes, backpack and other purposes; The latter is mostly used in clothing production, especially after washing, grinding and other processing, giving the canvas soft feel, wearing more comfortable.
2Twill fabric
This kind of product is woven with twill or twill variation, and the surface of the fabric shows a clear diagonal grain. Compared with plain cotton fabric, the feel is soft, the gloss is improved, the elasticity is better, and the wrinkle resistance is improved. Twill fabrics, when the use of different tightness, different warp and weft density, different twill direction, fly number, and different colors of yarn, you can weave a different surface effect.
(1) Twill
Twill cloth
Twill fabric is composed of two upper and lower twill, 45° left oblique cotton fabric. The positive twill pattern is obvious, 45° left oblique, the reverse twill line is ambiguous. Twill yarn count is similar, the warp density is slightly higher than the weft density, feel soft than plain cloth. Twill cloth has white, bleached, miscellaneous and printed and other types, after bleaching, dyeing or printing processing, can be formed into "bleached twill", "miscellaneous twill", "printed twill", commonly used for uniforms, work clothes, sportswear, school wear, sports shoes and other fabrics. Bleached twill can be used as sheets or printed sheets. Color and miscellaneous fine twill by electric or rolling finish bright cloth surface, can be used for umbrella and clothing clip.
(2) Khaki
Khaki is a kind of high density twill fabric in cotton fabric with fine and clear slanted grain. There are many kinds of khaki fabrics, which can be divided into yarn khaki, thread khaki and semi-immortal khaki according to the different yarns used. According to the different organization structure, it can be divided into single-sided card, double-sided card, miter card, satin card and so on.
khaki
Khaki is one of the tightest twill fabrics in cotton. Khaki cloth has the characteristics of compact texture, clear grain, thick feel, crisp and durable. Because the warp density is too close, the hem resistance and wear resistance are poor, so the neckline, cuff, trouser foot and other places of khaki clothing are easy to wear and crack. At the same time, because the fabric is tight, the fuel is not easy to penetrate into the yarn core during the dyeing process, so it is easy to wear white phenomenon. Khaki commonly used raw materials are pure cotton, polyester/cotton, cotton/weft, etc.
After dyeing and finishing processing and special treatment, khaki cloth can be used as spring, autumn, winter outerwear, uniform, work clothes, military clothing, windbreaker, raincoat, casual coat, casual pants and other clothing fabric.
(3) Gabardine
Gabardine twill
Gabardine belongs to the traditional articles of wool fabric. Cotton Gabardine is made of cotton yarn and is a variety of cotton fabric woven in imitation of the style of wool gabardine. Common gabardine is mostly half - thread fabric, that is, warp and weft, and gabardine is very rare. Gabardine weave is obvious, the twill line is steep and straight, and the texture is thick but not hard. The grey cloth must be finished and processed by mercerization and dyeing. Soft to the touch, wear-resistant and not easy to crack, and shiny. Suitable for men's and women's clothing in spring and winter.
(4) Serge
serge
Serge, like gabardine, was originally a traditional product of wool fabric, and then it was transplanted from wool fabric to cotton fabric. According to the different yarn used, it can be divided into yarn serge, half serge and thread serge. The main raw materials used are pure cotton, cotton viscose and viscose fiber. Serge is mostly dyed grey cloth, dyed for men's and women's clothing, children's hats. Yarn serge is also used for printing, after processing as women's clothing, children's fabric.
3Satin fabric
The warp or weft of satin fabric forms some separate and unconnected warp or weft points in the fabric. The fabric surface is almost completely covered by warp or weft. The warp surface of satin fabric composed of warp float lines is called straight tribute, while the weft surface of satin fabric composed of warp float lines is called cross tribute. The surface seems to have diagonal lines, but it does not have obvious diagonal lines like the twill. Compared with the twill, the warp and weft yarn is interwoven fewer times, with smooth and bright appearance, soft texture and other characteristics. But satin fabrics are prone to fraying, flexing, or picking out of the fabric, and are less strong than plain and twill fabrics.
(1) Direct tribute
Satin drill
The satin fabric is made of pure cotton fabric. The most used are satin texture and satin texture variation. The inclined Angle of the grain is above 75°, which is called gonadine. Because the surface is mostly covered by the floating line, the thick one has the appearance effect of wool fabric, so it is also called tribute or tribute; Thin with silk satin style, so called Zhigong satin. The texture is tight and thick, the feel is soft, the cloth surface is smooth and glossy. According to the different yarn used, it is divided into yarn straight tribute and half line straight tribute; According to printing and dyeing processing, it is divided into color tribute and flower tribute, which generally need to be finished by electric light or rolling. The color is mainly used as outerwear and shoe fabric; Printed straight tribute is mainly used as back, clothing fabric. The surface of the straight tribute is longer, and the surface of the friction is easy to chafe, so it is not suitable to scrub vigorously.
(2) Horizontal tribute
sateen
Henggong is the top product of cotton fabric, usually made of fine special yarn, with five pieces of three fly weft satin. Horizontal Gongsatin with fine yarn clean, fabric tight, smooth surface lubrication, soft feel, strong reflection, silk style, so it is also known as horizontal gongsatin, horizontal Gongsatin after printing and dyeing processing, and then after rolling or electro-optic finishing, bright and beautiful appearance. Mainly used as women's and children's clothing fabric and interior decoration cloth. The surface of the transverse pole has long floating length, poor wear resistance, and the cloth surface is easy to chafe. It is not suitable to scrub vigorously when washing.
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