Yarn Basics

Spinning process

Cotton matching → carding → carding → combining (air spinning) → roving → spinning → winding machine

Yarn Basics

Definition of yarn: a continuous linear object made of various textile fibers. Yarns are mainly used for weaving woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, braided fabrics and partial nonwovens

Yarn classification

One, pure spinning yarn

Pure spun yarn is composed of the same fiber, such as cotton yarn, wool yarn, viscose fiber yarn, acrylic fiber yarn, polyester yarn, polyamide yarn and so on.

Two, blended yarn (blended fiber)

A blended or crosstwisted yarn is a yarn composed of two or more fibers

Third, stock line

The yarn formed by combining and twisting two or more single yarns is called twine or thread for short.

"Yarn"

Is to arrange many short fibers or filaments into approximate parallel state, and along the axial rotation twist, the composition of a certain strength and linear density of the slender object

"Line"

A twine consisting of two or more single yarns twisted together.

According to the spinning system

1, Fine spun yarn (JC/CJ) (CM combe)

Also known as worsted yarn, refers to the yarn spun through the combing process, including worsted cotton yarn and worsted wool yarn.

Features of combed yarn: high parallel elongation of fiber, uniform strip, but high cost, high yarn count. Mainly used for high-grade fabrics and knitwear materials, such as fine spinning, Gabardine, tweed, woolen sweaters, etc.

2. Coarse spinning (C) (CD CARDED)

A yarn spun without combing. All chemical and cellulose fibers do not undergo combing.

Features and uses: more medium and short fiber content, poor parallel fiber straightness, loose structure, more velvet, low yarn count, poor quality. Used for general fabric and knitwear materials, such as woolen fabric, medium and special cotton fabric.

3. Waste yarn

Waste spinning refers to spun yarn made from textile scraps (waste cotton) or mixed with low grade raw materials.

Waste spinning features: yarn quality is poor, soft, uneven, mixed, poor color, generally only used to weave coarse cotton blanket, thick flannelette and packaging cloth and other low-grade fabrics.

According to the spinning method

1. RING SPUN

Ring spinning refers to the yarn made by twisting the traditional spinning method on the ring spinning frame. Yarn inside and outside the fiber winding connection, yarn structure is close, high strength.

2. OPEN END

Free-end yarn means to condense and twist the fibers into yarn in the spinning cup flow field of high speed rotation or in the static field. The twisting and winding of the yarn are completed by different parts, so the efficiency is high and the cost is low.

Free - end spinning stands for air - flow spinning

Airflow yarn: (OPEN END)

Also known as rotary cup spinning, it uses air flow to condense and twist fibers into yarn in a spinning cup with high speed rotation.

Air flow yarn characteristics: the yarn structure is puffier than ring spun yarn, wear-resistant, uniform, more colorful dyeing, but lower strength. It is mainly used for bulging and thick flat cloth and flannelette with good feeling in woven fabric.

According to yarn use

1. Weaving: (Weaving)

Woven yarn refers to the yarn used in processing machine fabric, including warp and weft.

Warp yarn: used as fabric longitudinal yarn, with large twist, high strength, good wear resistance

Weft: Used as a transverse yarn for fabric, with little twist, low strength, but soft characteristics

2. KNITTING yarn

Knitting yarn is the yarn used in knitted fabrics. Yarn quality requirements are high, small twist, moderate strength.

3. Other yarns:

Including sewing thread, embroidery thread, knitting thread, miscellaneous thread and so on. Requirements for these yarns vary according to their use.

Yarn indicators are introduced

Twist, strength, yarn count, sliver, detail, knot, and nep are uster indicators and are measured by uster instruments.

TWIST: (TWIST)

The number of twists per unit length of yarn.

Domestic: its measurement unit is "twist /10cm" or "twist /m"

Foreign: in INCH twist: TPI= twist /INCH twist /INCH

Twist effect on yarn:

Twist affects yarn strength, rigidity, flexibility, elasticity, shrinkage and other indicators

Selection of yarn twist:

The warp yarn needs to have a high strength and a large twist; The weft and knitting yarn should be soft and the twist should be small;

The yarn used for knitting and knitting fleece fabrics should have a small twist to facilitate fleece.

The fineness of yarn

There are two ways to express the degree of thickness: fixed length and fixed weight.

(1) system of fixed length

Refers to the weight of yarn of a given length. The greater the value, the thicker the yarn.

Unit of measurement: Special number (Nt) and denier number (Nden)

Special number (Nt)

Tex, also known as yarn number, refers to the weight of 1000m long fiber or yarn in grams at a constant moisture return, also known as yarn number. The special number can be written in the form of "18 Tex" or "18tex" to indicate that the weight of the yarn at 1000 meters is 18 grams

Calculation formula of cotton yarn:

583.1 = Number of British branches x number of yarn

Chemical fiber calculation formula:

590.5 = Number of British branches * Number of yarn

Laboratory count = 583.1/ 100m weight

Denier number (Nden)

Denier refers to the weight in grams of 9000m of fiber or yarn at a constant moisture regain, also known as "fineness".

The number of Dan can be expressed as: 24 Dan, 24D, etc. Denier number is generally used to express fineness of natural fiber silk or chemical fiber filament.

2 remakes

The length of a given weight of fiber or yarn. The higher the value, the finer the yarn.

Unit of measurement: Metric (Nm) and British (Ne)

Metric count (Nm)

The length in meters of a gram of yarn (or fiber) at a constant moisture regain. The metric count can be expressed as "20 metric counts" or "40 metric counts", meaning that a gram of yarn is 20m or 40m long.

English unit (Ne)

Refers to the number of 840 yards of cotton thread that weighs 1 pound (454 grams).

If a 1 pound yarn has 60 yarns 840 yards in length, the yarn count is 60 pounds and is recorded as 60 seconds.

Unit line British system representation method: 60S/3

Yarn breaking strength

It refers to the tensile force that holds the ends of the yarn together to break it, the tension that the yarn is subjected to.

Domestic: CN centibeef is used, 1N=102CN

Abroad: comprehensive strong CLSP said

Wurst index of yarn

Refers to the evenness of thickness or weight of yarn, sliver or roving along the shorter axial segments, known as sliver evenness, the lower the value the better

U% = CV / 1.25

-50% detail (THIN) : indicates the number of details in kilometers

+50% THICK (THICK) : the number of THICK kilometers

+200% NEP: ring spinning

+280% NEP: air spinning

IPI of imported yarn = sum of detail + knot + nep

The calculation formula of irregularity is as follows:

(Total average - average below) * (number of items below *2)/Total average * Number of items total