First, positive and negative recognition

Among all kinds of textile fabrics, it is difficult to distinguish the positive and negative sides of some fabrics. Slight negligence in the process of garment sewing will easily lead to mistakes, such as uneven shades of color and color, uneven patterns, and even serious color differences, confusion of patterns and fabric reversals, which will affect the appearance of garments. On the other hand, the identification of fabric is not only by visual and hand sensory methods, but also from the fabric structure characteristics, design and color characteristics, the appearance of the special effect after special finishing, as well as from the fabric's trademark stickers and seals and other aspects to identify.

1. Identification according to the fabric structure

(l) Plain weave fabrics: it is difficult to distinguish between the front and the back of plain weave fabrics, so in practice there is no difference between the front and the back (except for printed fabrics). Generally plain weave fabrics are relatively smooth and clean on the front, and the color and lustre are uniform and bright.

(2) Twill fabric: Twill structure is divided into single-sided twill and double-sided twill. The lines of the one-sided twill are clear on the front and blurred on the back. In addition, in terms of the inclination of grain, the front grain of single yarn is inclined from top left to bottom right, while the grain of half-thread or full-thread fabric is inclined from bottom left to top right. The front and back lines of the double twill are basically the same, but diagonally opposite.

(3) satin fabric: because the front of the satin fabric warp or weft surface surface more, the cloth surface is smooth and compact, full of luster. And the reverse of the grain and like plain, and like twill, the luster is dim.

In addition, warp twill and warp satin fronts have more warp float points, while weft twill and weft satin fronts have more warp float points.

2. Identify according to fabric pattern and color

The patterns and patterns on the front of all kinds of fabrics are relatively clear and clean. The shapes and lines of the patterns are fine and obvious, with distinct layers and vivid and full colors. On the opposite side, the color is lighter than the positive side, the line contour is more fuzzy, the pattern lacks layers, and the luster is also dim.

3. Recognize the fabric structure and pattern

The weave pattern of jacquard, jacquard and jacquard fabrics varies a lot. General weave front, generally less floating yarn, stripes, grids and patterns are more obvious than the opposite side, and the lines are clear, prominent outline, color and lustre is uniform, bright and soft; On the reverse side, the pattern is fuzzy, the outline is not clear, and the color is dark. The decorative pattern that also has individual jacquard fabric reverse has a unique style and show chic, color mediates gentle and quiet, because this is used when making clothes reverse makes positive material. As long as the fabric yarn structure is reasonable, the float length is uniform, and does not affect the use of fastness, the reverse can also be used for the front.

4. Identify according to the fabric edge

The side of the cloth of general fabric is more flat and straight than the opposite side, and the edge of the cloth side on the opposite side is curled in. Woven on shuttleless loom, the front edge is relatively flat, and the back edge is easy to find the wool of the filling head. Some high quality fabrics. A code or other writing woven into the edge of a fabric, such as woolen cloth. And the positive code or text are clear, obvious, smooth; And the back of the code or text is more vague, the font was written backwards.

5. Recognize the appearance effect of the fabric after special finishing

(1) Filling fabric: dense plush stands on the front of fabric. On the opposite side, it is cartilaginous. The ground organization is obvious such as plush, velvet, velveteen, corduroy and so on. Some fabrics are so dense that it is difficult to see even the texture of the ground organization.

(2) burnt-out fabric: after chemical treatment, the front of the pattern is clear, layered and bright in color. If the suede is burnt-out, the suede is plump and flat, such as burnt-out silk, georges velvet, etc.

6. Identification by trademark and seal

When the whole fabric is inspected before leaving the factory, it is generally pasted with product trademark paper or instructions, and the pasted side is the reverse side of the fabric. The back side of each fabric is stamped with the date of manufacture and inspection stamp at both ends of each piece and section. Different from domestic products, export products label stickers and seals are covered on the front.

Second, the inverted hair identification

Some clothing fabrics, such as corduroy, velveteen, velvet, plush and all kinds of woolen fabric, the velveteen has inverted smooth. There is a marked difference between the front and back of these fabrics. It is generally stroked by hand. The hair held up is pours hair. The hair that obeys is Shun Mao. In addition, there is a marked difference in color. With this kind of fabric production clothing, distinguish the positive and negative sides of the suede is obvious, such as corduroy suede is positive, and the correct judgment of the fabric fluff trend, the use of pouring or wool tailoring. In addition, when the fabric with inverted wool is cut, the single-piece cutting method is needed to ensure that the main and auxiliary pieces have the same inverted wool, otherwise the garment effect will be inconsistent. Some fabrics have flash effect, but also must pay attention to the back, otherwise the flash color will be inconsistent, affecting its effect. Some of the asymmetric lattice fabric, also should pay attention to the points of the down, its processing method and have down the wool, corduroy processing method is the same.

Three, the identification of defects

Whether there are defects or not is an important standard for inspecting the quality of fabrics. The causes of defects are mainly as follows:

1. Defects caused by poor fiber quality, yarn defects;

2. Weaving defects, called defects;

3. Defects arising from printing, dyeing, finishing and other processes. Weighing and rectifying defects.

Serious defects should be cut off. If there are light defects in woolen and silk fabrics, a small cord, commonly known as a "braid", should be tied to the edge of the fabric outside the defect as a mark. On other textiles. For example, rayon and terylene cotton are not tied with "braid", and the grade of fabrics is assessed according to the specific situation (defect severity).

Slight defects will directly affect the appearance, serious defects will damage the local strength and wear resistance, so the defects on the fabric should be avoided as far as possible when cutting. If there is no way to avoid the defect can be arranged in the clothing is not often worn parts, so as not to affect the appearance of the clothing and fastness.

1. Original yarn defects.

Defects in fabric due to yarn defects.

2. Defects of raw color cloth.

3. Yarn-dyed fabric defects.

4. Defects of dyeing cloth.

Four,Identification and correction of weft inclination

In the weaving and finishing process of various yarn-dyed fabrics, due to the influence of mechanical tension and so on, the weft misalignment phenomenon appears in the fabric format, which is called "weft inclination". The weft inclination has the lattice inclination, the flower inclination and the weft inclination, and so on. The lattice inclination is the most common, especially in all kinds of plaid flannelette. The weft inclination of yarn-dyed fabrics has the following three forms:

1. Side weft inclination: it shows that the fabric is inclined with one end high and the other end low.

2. Central bow weft: show the fabric in the middle of a circular arc of concave.

3. Side bow weft: it shows that one side of the fabric (left or right) is in the shape of an arc.

No matter what kind of weft inclined form, if not corrected in advance, it will damage the appearance and internal quality of clothing after cutting. For example, the serious weft slant on the plaid or horizontal strip material will form the left and right or between the front and back of the garment piece, the strip and grid can not be aligned, which seriously affects the appearance quality of the garment. If weft skew is not corrected, it will cause the weft grain of the garment to be not straight, which will cause the garment to be distorted and put into uneven clothes, causing serious internal quality problems of the finished garment.

There are two ways to correct weft skew:

1. Manual correction: spray water and wet the raw material, and then pull the raw material in the direction of weft inclination. Although this method is effective, the labor intensity is high and the speed is slow.

2. Machine correction: most of the weft skew correction machine is designed and manufactured by the garment factory. The straightening machine is composed of five parts: support, transmission, steam spraying device, adjusting weft drawing device and ironing drum. Its characteristic is labor-saving, work efficiency is fast. Some of the serious weft skew cloth, to be repeated many times to correct the effect.