Yarn quality requirements of different fabric structures

1, plain tissue

Plain weave has tight structure and smooth surface. The coverage probability of warp and weft yarns is basically the same, and the tightness is not much different. The effect of yarn strip, bamboo knot, cotton knot, impurity, coarse warp and wrong weft on dyeing and finishing products is very obvious.

Generally, a tube yarn will be concentrated on a section of door width, so it is very sensitive to the quality of grey cloth, and more attention should be paid to the weft yarn. Dyeing and finishing products with higher quality requirements, warp and weft should be separated with cotton, in raw materials, technology to give care, especially for poplin fabric with high warp density and low weft density.

2. Twill tissue

The surface of the twill tissue has oblique grain which is continuously connected by the floating point or the weft floating point. This kind of tissue has less warp and weft crossing points than plain weave, so the weaving density is generally higher than plain weave, the fabric tightness is greater than plain weave, and the warp density is generally higher than the weft density. The fabric has two up, two down and three up and down. Two on the two cloth surface is symmetrical, warp and weft yarn exposure is basically the same. Three on the front of the fabric warp is exposed, warp appearance defects are easy to be exposed on the cloth surface. The weft yarn can be concealed because of less exposure.

Therefore, we must pay more attention to the warp quality of grey cloth from dyeing and finishing products. A defect in a twill fabric is a result of a lack of weft roots, resulting in a fabric fabric error (equivalent to a plain weave fabric with thin weft). Twill fabric has khaki, gabardine, serge three types. Among them, fabric tightness khaki is larger than gabardine, serge is the largest. In general, the higher the tightness, the more difficult the weaving and the more likely to produce defects.

3. Satin weave

Satin weave weave interlace point spacing is longer, interlace point less, so the weaving density can be higher. The surface of the fabric is smooth and shiny, soft to the touch, and it is full of dazzling luster after dyeing and finishing resin and electric light rolling. Satin fabrics are divided into transverse tribute and straight tribute. In general, tribute satin products belong to middle and high grade products, which require high yarn defects and need special attention.

1) satin drill

The front side of the straight tribute fabric is mainly formed by the warp yarn, usually five three fly yarn straight tribute and five two fly yarn straight tribute two kinds, the cloth surface is thick, the cloth surface has tight twill effect, the five three fly yarn straight tribute has some soft and smooth requirements. The fabric has 5/3, 5/2 satin finish. The main feature of straight gong fabric is that most warp appears on the front of the cloth, and the quality of warp is higher (such as tight warp, loose warp, cotton knot, hundred feet and other defects are less).

(2) sateen

The front side of the transverse tribute fabric is mainly formed by the weft yarn, the cloth body is soft and smooth like silk. The fabric is 5/3 weft satin. The main feature of the cross feature is that most of the weft appears on the front of the cloth, and the quality of the weft is required to be higher (such as fewer defects such as cotton knots and weft shrinkage).

4, sparse fabric

Thin fabric refers to fabric with warp and weft arrangement tightness below 50%, especially the fabric with weft arrangement tightness at 45% and below. Such as Maier, barre, gauze, mosquito net cloth, mesh cloth and other lightweight fabrics. Generally, sparse fabric has smaller coverage of warp and weft yarn and more exposure. It is clear at a glance to the uneven strip, coarse joints, details and various defects, so the requirements are higher.

5, compact fabric

The fabric density is larger, the tightness is higher, such as corduroy cloth, flat flannelette cloth, waterproof cloth, down cloth, high-count poplin, etc., the tight fabric tightness is high (generally about 90%), weaving difficulty is big, the most easy to produce three hops (jump flower, jump yarn, star jump) defect; Cloth surface requirements flat, smooth, dry, mixed also have higher requirements. The probability of occurrence of yellow and white yarns for compact fabric increases with the increase of weft color contrast.

6, extra fine fabric

Extra-fine fabric refers to the fabric whose warp and weft are below 10tex (60 and above), and most of them are combed cotton yarn, and the fabric is mostly high-grade products. Due to the finer yarn and higher fabric quality requirements, the yarn defects such as roving, slub, strip, cotton knot, oil yarn, colored yarn and coal ash yarn are required to be very strict.

7. Yarn-dyed fabric

1) meters of cloth

The rice cloth is usually woven from one colored yarn and one white yarn (or two warp yarns of different colors), and also from one colored yarn and one white yarn (or two warp yarns of different colors) in both warp and weft. Due to its weaving characteristics, yarn defects are obviously exposed on the fabric surface, and the requirements for the yarn's dry, hairiness and knotting are very high.

(2) youth cloth

Youth cloth is usually woven from a colored yarn at warp direction and a white yarn at weft direction, with the same thickness at warp and weft. The young cloth is similar to the rice cloth, because of the obvious exposure of yarn defects, the yarn has a high requirement for the cotton knot.

8, polyester/cotton-polyester filament interwoven fabric

The cotton/polyester/cotton-cotton filament interwoven fabric has high requirements on twist, knot, strand and hairiness of cotton yarn due to the uniform strip and dry of polyester filament and strong contrast with cotton yarn.

PART

two

Different dyeing and finishing process of yarn quality requirements

1. Bleach the blank

Grey cloth after bleaching, the cloth surface is clear and white, so the residual defects on the cloth surface are easier to appear, especially some oil, colored defects (such as bamboo, oil yarn, oil yarn, color yarn, coal ash yarn, opposite fiber, etc.) must be paid special attention to. Chemical fiber blended and pure spinning products have higher requirements for the above defects because of their higher whiteness.

2. Dyed billet

The dyed billet can be divided into light billet and dark billet.

Due to the light color of light billet, the defects of colored yarn, oil yarn, coal ash yarn and hetero-fiber yarn are higher.

The dark billet has a deep dyeing and has a strong ability to cover defects of colored yarn, oil yarn, coal ash yarn and uneven yarn, but has a high requirement for defects of snakeskin yarn, cotton knot and dead cotton yarn. The white star problem in dark billet is particularly prominent quality key, which is mainly formed by low mature fibers such as stiff flap, soft seed epidermis and dead fiber in raw cotton resulting in dye failure to color, so it must be paid attention to.

The variegated or medium light colored billet is similar to the bleached billet in that it has higher requirements for oil and color defects, and slightly higher requirements for general yarn defects such as dry and dense road blocking than dark billet. The visual impact of different colors on grey cloth will be different. According to experience, Shilin color, cyan color, beige color and so on are very sensitive to the appearance of grey cloth.

3. Blank printing

The blank is roughly divided into two categories: dyeing base printing and white base printing. Due to the color pattern printed on the cloth surface, the general oil stain, colored yarn, oil yarn, coal ash yarn, uneven yarn and some weaving defects on the surface of grey cloth can be covered up. Due to the relatively more whiteness on the cloth surface, the white background printing requires more serious yarn defects, and sometimes even requires the same as the bleached blank.