Woven fabric

Traditionally, it is a cloth woven by the shuttle to drive the weft yarn back and forth in the warp yarn. Generally, there are obvious edge structures on both sides, whether the grey cloth or the finished cloth is flat. The knitted fabric grey cloth is often cylindrical, and the finished product becomes flat after being opened and shaped.

The concept of yarn count density

There are so many different fabrics, how to express the different specifications? Yarn count density is an important indicator.

Yarn count: Generally speaking, British counts are used. The specific definition is: British count calculation of cotton yarn: cotton yarn with a nominal weight of one pound has several 840 yards, which is called a few British counts. For example, if it contains 32 840 yards, it is called 32 British counts, and so on, the higher the count, the thinner the yarn. The British branch is generally represented by s.

At the same time, there is also the index of Daniel to indicate the thickness of the fiber. It is opposite to the British branch. The higher the fiber, the thicker it is. The specific definition is: fixed length 9000 m, weight 1 g = 1 D, if the 9000 meters long fiber weighs 70 grams, 70D. Converted to English branch is 76s

Daniel is generally used to describe finer fibers, such as nylon, polyester, spandex, etc.

Density: The number of warp and weft yarns per inch is called density. We have a density mirror, the size in the box is 1”, and the density is as many as you count.

For example: 20x16/128x60, which means that the warp yarn is 20s, the weft yarn is 16s, there are 128 warp yarns per inch and 68 weft yarns. This is just the most basic fabric. In addition, there are many more complex fabrics. The method of expressing yarn count density is correspondingly more complicated.

Generally speaking, the density of non-stretch fabrics refers to the yarn count density of the grey fabric, and the density after the finished product will change accordingly. Most non-stretch fabrics have grey fabric widths of 47” or 63”, and their finished widths are 44” or 58” respectively. Taking 128x60/20x16 as an example, 47” x 128/44”=136. So this fabric The finished product warp density should be around 136. And the weft density basically does not change before and after the finished product, up and down at most 1-2.

The grey fabric will lose some weight after layer-by-layer treatment during the dyeing and finishing process, so the finished yarn count will be 1-2 counts thinner than the grey fabric yarn count. Be aware of it when testing.

Elastic cloth generally talks about the density of the finished product.

Concepts of various organizational structures

In addition to the yarn count density, there is another important indicator to understand what this piece of cloth is like, that is, the organizational structure of this piece of cloth. Generally speaking, there are mainly the following:

1. For plain weave fabrics, the warp and weft yarns are woven up and down, which is the most basic weaving method. The thinner and lighter plain weave fabric is called poplin, and the thicker plain weave fabric is called canvas.

2. Twill weave fabric, there are 3 kinds of common, 2/1, 3/1, 2/2, several ups and downs refer to the ups and downs of warp yarns. 3/1 means that the warp yarn floats on top of 3 weft yarns, then sinks under one weft yarn, and then floats on top of 3 weft yarns. This kind of fabric is called yarn card or thread card.

3. Satin fabrics are generally 4/1, and there are 5/3. This is more complicated, as long as you understand the characteristic of this kind of cloth that has a strong surface gloss. There are more direct tributes.

4. Jacquard: It is done by a more complex dobby loom, usually small jacquard, which is dobby. Such as square, wick strip, herringbone diagonal, satin strip, all are small jacquard.

5. Velvet plants, mainly corduroy, velveteen. The main feature of corduroy is that the density of weft yarns is much higher than that of warp yarns. Because the weft yarn becomes pile yarn after opening.

Different dyeing and finishing methods

Generally speaking, there are two ways of dyeing and finishing woven fabrics, one is dyeing and the other is yarn-dyed.

Dyeing refers to weaving the grey fabric first, and then sending it to the dyeing factory. After desizing, singeing, smelting, mercerizing, (sanding) dyeing, setting, pre-shrinking, softening, etc., the colored fabric is obtained. Most of the printing process is the same, mainly the dyeing process is changed to printing.

Dyeing is divided into two types: continuous dyeing and vat dyeing.

Yarn-dyed weaving means that the yarn is dyed and then subjected to warping, sizing, weaving and finishing to obtain the finished fabric. The yarn-dyed fabric is mainly in lattice and sliver pattern.

The difference between various dyes

There are basically four types of dyes, the most important being reactive dyed (also known as reactive dyes) and vat dyed (also known as vat dyed). Among them, the color fastness of Shilin is the best. But one thing is very important. It is impossible for one dye to cover all chromatograms. Some colors can only be made with one dye, such as navy blue, which can only be reactive. The color spectrum of Shilin is mainly light and medium colors.

There is also a paint, which fades badly after washing, and is often used by guests who are looking for a sense of staleness after washing. The color fastness is very poor before washing, but acceptable after washing.

There are sulfur dyes, which are basically eliminated. They are used for the black color of corduroy. They have poor color fastness and have a strong corrosive effect on cotton fibers. The tear strength is very poor over time.

The main test indicators

Divided into two categories: physical indicators and color fastness

Physical indicators include: yarn count density, weight, tensile strength, tear strength, PH, shrinkage, composition, flame retardant and so on.

Color fastness includes: washing fading, staining, rubbing, light, chlorine bleaching, non-chlorine bleaching, color change in actual washing, etc.

In the test, the general customer allows only one color for the physical index and can save costs.

Generally, the test cloth has to undergo special treatment to ensure that it passes.

The composition of the price

Dyeing printed cloth: grey cloth price + finished product price of dyeing and finishing. The price of grey cloth is composed of yarn raw material cost plus weaving labor cost.

Yarn-dyed fabric: yarn raw material price + dyeing cost + weaving labor cost + finishing cost

Approximate production cycle

Take the number of 30,000 meters as an example to talk about the approximate cycle:

Dyeing calico: If it is a ready-made grey fabric, it will take about 2 weeks. In the case of custom-woven grey cloth, 35-40 days.

Yarn-dyed fabric: about 35 days.