These insider stories in the fabric! How much do you know!

2022-02-22 11:05:00

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In the big world of fabrics, the types are varied and changing with each passing day. Only by understanding the knowledge about fabrics can we be better qualified for the job.

type of fabric

TYPE OF FABRIC

① Soft fabric

Soft fabrics are generally light and thin, with good drape, smooth modeling lines, and natural stretch of clothing outlines. Soft fabrics mainly include knitted fabrics and silk fabrics with scattered fabric structures, as well as soft and thin hemp yarn fabrics. Soft knitted fabrics often use straight and concise shapes in clothing design to reflect the graceful curves of the human body; silk, hemp yarn and other fabrics often have loose and pleated shapes, showing the flow of fabric lines.

② Very cool fabric

The cool fabric has clear lines and a sense of volume, which can form a plump clothing outline. Commonly there are cotton, polyester-cotton, corduroy, linen, and various medium and thick wool and chemical fiber fabrics.

③ glossy fabric

Glossy fabrics have a smooth surface and reflect light for a sparkling feel. Such fabrics include satin-structured fabrics. Most commonly used in evening gowns or stage costumes, it produces a gorgeous and dazzling strong visual effect. The glossy fabric has a wide range of freedom in the performance of the dress, and can have a simple design or a more exaggerated modeling method.

④ Thick and heavy fabric

Heavy duty fabrics are thick and scratchy for consistent styling, including a wide range of heavyweight woolen and quilted fabrics. The fabric has a sense of physical expansion, and it is not appropriate to use too many pleats and accumulations. In the design, the A-shaped and H-shaped shapes are the most appropriate.

⑤ Transparent fabric

The transparent fabric is light and transparent, with an elegant and mysterious artistic effect. Including cotton, silk, chemical fiber fabrics, etc., such as georgette, satin silk, chemical fiber lace, etc. In order to express the transparency of the fabric, the natural and plump lines are often used, and the H-shaped and circular cone-shaped design shapes are rich in changes.

Commonly used clothing fabrics

CLOTHING FABRICS

① Cotton fabric:

It refers to the fabric woven from cotton yarn or cotton and cotton-type chemical fiber blended yarn. Its advantages are good air permeability, good moisture absorption, and comfortable wearing. Its disadvantages are that it is easy to shrink and wrinkle, and its appearance is not very crisp and beautiful. It must be ironed frequently when wearing. It can be divided into two categories: pure cotton products and cotton blends.

② Hemp fabric:

Pure hemp fabrics woven from hemp fibers and fabrics blended or interwoven with hemp fibers are collectively referred to as hemp fabrics. The advantages of hemp fabrics are extremely high strength, moisture absorption, thermal conductivity, and good air permeability. Its disadvantage is that it is not very comfortable to wear, and the appearance is rough and blunt. Hemp fabrics can be divided into two categories: pure spinning and blended spinning.

③ Silk fabric:

It is a high-end variety in textiles. It mainly refers to the fabrics mainly made of mulberry silk, tussah silk, rayon and synthetic filaments. Its strengths are thin, fit, soft, smooth, breathable, colorful, lustrous, elegant and comfortable to wear. Its shortcomings are that it is easy to wrinkle, easy to suck, not strong enough, and fades quickly.

④ Wool fabric:

It is a fabric made of wool, rabbit hair, camel hair, and wool-type chemical fiber as the main raw materials. Generally, wool is used as the living material. Its disadvantage is that it is difficult to wash, and it is not suitable for making summer clothes.

⑤ Purified fiber fabric:

Chemical fiber fabrics are favored by people for their high fastness, good elasticity, stiffness, wear resistance, washability, and easy storage and collection. Purified fiber fabrics are fabrics woven from pure chemical fibers. Its characteristics are determined by the characteristics of its chemical fiber itself. Chemical fibers can be processed into a certain length according to different needs, and woven into silk-like, cotton-like, linen-like, elastic wool-like, and medium-length wool-like fabrics according to different processes.

⑥ Leather

It is a tanned animal fur fabric. It is mostly used to make fashion and winter clothes. It can be divided into two categories: one is leather, that is, leather that has been dehaired. The second is fur, which is treated leather with fur. Its advantage is that it is light and warm, elegant and luxurious. Its disadvantage is that it is expensive and requires high storage and nursing, so it should not be popularized.

⑦Blend

It is a fabric made by mixing natural fibers and chemical fibers in a certain proportion, which can be used to make various kinds of clothing. Its advantage is that it not only absorbs the advantages of cotton, hemp, silk, wool and chemical fibers, but also avoids their respective shortcomings as much as possible, and is relatively cheap in value, so it is very popular.

Fabric identification

DISTINGUISH FABRICS

--- Sensory method ---

① Pure cotton:

The cloth surface has a soft luster, soft feel, poor elasticity and easy to wrinkle. Pinch the fabric tightly with your hands and release it, there are obvious creases, and the creases are not easy to return to their original shape. Take out a few warp and weft yarns from the edge of the fabric and twist them apart to see that the fibers are of different lengths.

② Viscose cotton cloth (including rayon and fiber-rich cloth):

The cloth surface has soft and bright luster, bright colors, smooth and clean, soft to the touch and poor elasticity. After pinching the fabric tightly with your hands, you can see obvious creases, and the creases are not easy to return to their original shape.

③ Polyester cotton:

The luster is brighter than pure cotton cloth, the cloth surface is flat, and there is no yarn end or impurities. The hand feels smooth and stiff, and the elasticity is better than that of pure cotton. When you squeeze the fabric tightly with your hand and release it, the crease is not obvious and it is easy to return to its original state.

④ Pure wool worsted woolen:

The surface of the fabric is smooth and clean, and the texture is fine and clear. The luster is soft and natural, and the color is pure. Soft and elastic to the touch. Pinch the fabric with your hands to loosen it, the crease is not obvious, and it can quickly return to its original state. Most of the yarn counts are double strands.

⑤ Pure wool woolen wool:

The surface is plump and the texture is tight and thick. There are fine fluff on the surface, and the texture is generally not revealed. It feels warm, plump and elastic. The yarn is mostly coarse single yarn.

⑥ Wool polyester blended woolen:

The exterior has a pure wool fabric style. The texture of the woolen surface is clear, flat and smooth, the hand feeling is not as soft as pure wool fabrics, it has a stiff and rough feeling, and its elasticity exceeds that of full wool and wool viscose. Squeeze the fabric with your hands and release it, and the crease quickly returns to its original shape.

⑦ Wool acrylic blended woolen:

Mostly worsted. The fur is strong, wool-like and warm. Not as elastic as wool.

⑧ Wool and brocade blended wool:

The woolen surface is flat, the hair feels strong, the appearance has a waxy luster, and the hand feels stiff. After pinching the fabric with your hand, release it, there are obvious creases, and it can slowly return to its original state.

⑨ Silk:

The silk surface is smooth and clean, the luster is soft, and the color is bright and pure. It feels smooth, soft, and looks light and airy. Under dry conditions, the silk surface can be pulled by hand, and there is a "silk sound" when it is torn.

⑩ Viscose silk fabric (human silk):

The silk surface is bright but not soft, bright in color, smooth to the touch, soft and drapey, but not as light and elegant as real silk. After pinching the silk surface, release it, there are creases, and the recovery is slow. The sound is hoarse when tearing. When the warp and weft yarns are wet with water, they are easily broken.

silk

SILK

"1" represents real silk, including mulberry silk and mulberry interwoven varieties with mulberry silk accounting for more than 50%, double palace silk, and mulberry silk silk;

"2" represents synthetic fibers;

"3" represents a blend of natural fibers and short fibers;

"4" represents tussah;

"5" represents rayon;

"6" represents the interweaving of filaments of two or more raw materials, or the interweaving of filaments and short filaments;

"7"" represents the quilt type.

Silk product origin code: B is Beijing, C is Sichuan, D is Liaoning, E is Hubei, G is Guangdong, H is Zhejiang, J is Jiangxi, K is Jiangsu, M is Fujian, N is Guangxi, Q is Shaanxi, S is It is Shanghai, T is Tianjin, V is Henan, W is Anhui, and X is Hunan.

Fiber classification

FIBER CLASSIFiCATION

Plant fibers: cotton, linen

Animal fibers: silk, wool

Man-made fibers (recycled): viscose, soy fiber, glass fiber, metal fiber

Synthetic fibers: polyester, nylon, nitrile, vitamin, propylene, ammonia, chlorine (fiber)

Yarn classification

YARN CLASSIFiCATION

Pure cotton yarn: carded/semi-fine/combed (high uniformity, high strength, easy to color)

Chemical fiber yarn: polyester, nitrile, viscose, vinyl yarn

Blended Yarn: T/C, C/C, T/R

Ply yarn: yarn made of two or more yarns twisted together

Filament: divided into monofilament and multifilament

Textured yarn: high elastic nylon yarn, low elastic polyester yarn, acrylic bulked yarn

Fancy yarn: slub yarn, spiral small flower, seersucker, magic yarn

knitted fabric

KINTTED

Refers to a fabric made of one or a group of yarns as raw materials and processed by a weft knitting machine or a warp knitting machine to form a coil cover. According to the processing method, it can be divided into single-sided weft (warp) knitted fabric and double-sided weft (warp) knitted fabric.

The main difference between woven fabrics and knitted fabrics is: woven fabrics are vertically intertwined by two sets of warp and weft yarns, while knitted fabrics are a set of yarns formed by looping machines such as knitting needles to form loops. And made of interlocking sets, similar to our sweaters.

Performance characteristics

soft feel;

Greater extensibility and elasticity;

Good breathability and wrinkle resistance;

It is easy to fall off, curl, and easily snag, and it is not as durable as woven fabrics.

Common varieties

Plain weave - continuous unit coils are unidirectionally interlocked with each other. It has disintegration and serious curling, and it is easy to weft and oblique.

Rib - has greater flexibility and extensibility in the lateral direction. Not easy to fall off, no curling, good dimensional stability. French rib is a double-sided rib with low lateral elastic extensibility and poor dimensional stability.

Knitting jacquard - changing the yarn thickness, quantity, color, etc. to form a fabric pattern.

Chemical fiber fabrics - man-made fiber fabrics. Rayon fabrics basically refer to viscose filament and staple fabrics, known as rayon, rayon fabrics and viscose blended fabrics.

Woven fabric

WOVEN

Refers to fabrics processed by warp and weft with shuttle or shuttleless looms. The main feature is that the cloth surface is divided into warp and weft. When the warp and weft raw materials, yarn counts and densities in the fabric are different, the fabric presents anisotropy.

Features:

Strong hygroscopic performance, good dyeing performance, and shrinkage rate of about 3%;

Excellent comfort, soft luster, firm and durable;

Good feel, poor elasticity, easy to wrinkle;

Alkali and acid resistant;

Light and heat resistance is general;

It is not easy to be eaten by insects, but it is susceptible to microbial erosion and mildew.

Feature comparison

Fading: cotton > blended > chemical fiber

Easy to deform: knitted > woven

Pilling, pilling: cotton fabric < blended fabric (polyester cotton) < wool acrylic fabric

Static electricity: chemical fiber > cotton