1Plain weave fabric

This kind of product is woven with plain weave or plain weave, with many interweaving points, firm texture, smooth surface, and the same appearance effect on the front and back. There are many types of plain weave fabrics. When warp and weft yarns of different thicknesses, different warp and weft densities, and yarns with different twists, twist directions, tensions, and colors are used, fabrics with different appearance effects can be woven.

Here are some commonly used plain weave cotton fabrics:

(1) Plain cloth

Plain cloth is a plain weave woven with pure cotton, purified fiber, and blended yarn; the counts of warp and weft are equal or close, the warp density and weft density are equal or close, and the plain cloth is divided into thick plain cloth according to different styles. , Medium plain cloth and fine plain cloth.

Coarse cloth, also known as coarse cloth. It is woven with thicker cotton yarn above No. 32 (under 18 British counts) as warp and weft yarns. Its characteristic is that the cloth body is rough and thick, the cloth surface is more neps, the cloth body is thick, firm and durable. Coarse cloth is mainly used to make clothing and furniture cloth after printing and dyeing. In remote mountainous areas and coastal fishing villages, coarse cloth is also used as bedding, or dyed to make shirts and trousers.

Plain cloth

Zhongping cloth, also known as city cloth. It is woven with medium-sized cotton yarn of No. 22-30 (26-20 British counts) as warp and weft yarns. It is characterized by tighter structure, smooth and plump cloth surface, denser structure, firm texture, and harder hand feeling. The plain fabric of the original color is suitable for tie-dyeing and batik processing. It is also often used as an interlining or three-dimensional cutting sample cloth. The dyed medium plain fabric is mostly used for casual shirts or blouses.

Fine plain cloth, also known as fine cloth. Fine plain cloth is woven with finer cotton yarn of size 19 or less (above 30 inches) as warp and weft yarns. Its characteristic is that the cloth body is fine, clean and soft, the texture is light and compact, the cloth surface is less neps and impurities, and the cloth body is thin. Usually processed into various bleached cloth, colored cloth and printed cloth, which can be used as shirts and other clothing. In addition, the plain fabric (also called fine spinning) woven with cotton yarn of less than 15 gauge (above 40 British count), and the thin plain weave fabric woven from fine (high count) cotton yarn are called glass yarn or Bali yarn. Good, suitable for making summer coats, blouses or as decorative cloths such as curtains. Fine cloth is mostly used as grey cloth for bleaching cloth, colored cloth and floral cloth.

(2) Poplin

Poplin is the main variety of cotton. It has a silk style, and its feel and appearance are similar to silk, so it is called poplin. It is a fine extra-high density cotton fabric. The poplin fabric has clear textures, full grains, smooth and compact texture, crisp and smooth hand feeling, and it is available in printing and dyeing and yarn-dyed strips and other patterns.

Plain weave poplin

Poplin is classified according to the weaving color, including hidden checkered poplin, satin checkered poplin, jacquard poplin, etc., suitable for high-end men's and women's shirts. According to the printing and dyeing process of natural poplin grey cloth, there are bleached poplin, variegated poplin and printed poplin. Printed poplin is usually used for summer women's clothing and children's clothing. According to the quality of the yarn used, there are combed full-line poplin and carded poplin, which are suitable for different grades of shirts and skirts.

(3) Bali yarn

Unlike poplin, Bali yarn has a very low density. It is a thin, semi-transparent plain weave fabric woven with fine-gauge twisted yarn (above 60 British counts). It has high transparency, so it is also called "glass yarn." Although Bali yarn is very thin, because the yarn is made of combed fine cotton yarn with reinforced twist, the fabric is transparent, feels refreshing and elastic, has good moisture absorption and air permeability, and has bones.

Bali yarn

The warp and weft yarns of Bali yarn are either single yarns or strands. According to different processing, glass yarn includes dyed glass yarn, bleached glass yarn, printed glass yarn, yarn-dyed jacquard glass yarn. Usually used in summer clothing fabrics, such as ladies' summer skirts, men's shirts, children's clothing, etc., or handkerchiefs, veils and curtains, furniture cloths and other decorative fabrics.

(4) Hemp yarn

Linen yarn

The raw material of hemp yarn is not hemp or cotton fabric mixed with hemp fiber. Instead, it uses tightly twisted fine cotton yarn as warp and weft yarns. It is woven with a plain weave structure. It is a thin cotton fabric named after it is as cool as hemp. . The changeable flat weave is also called linen-like weave, which makes the cloth surface present with fine straight convex stripes or various strips of different widths, similar to the appearance of linen; and the fabric is light and smooth, flat and fine, with low density, breathable and comfortable , Has a linen style, so it is called "linen yarn". However, due to its organizational structure, the shrinkage rate in the weft direction is larger than that in the warp direction, so it should be improved as much as possible. In addition to the falling water pre-shrinkage, care should be taken to leave a margin when sewing clothes. Linen yarn is bleached, dyed, printed, jacquard, yarn-dyed, etc. It is suitable for men's and women's shirts, children's underwear, pajamas, skirt materials, handkerchiefs and decorative fabrics. In recent years, the more common ones in the market are woven from blended yarns such as polyester/cotton, polyester/linen, and vinyl/cotton.

(5) Canvas

canvas

Canvas is a thick fabric. The warp and weft yarns are all multi-stranded. They are generally woven with plain weave, and they are also woven with heavy flat or twill weave and satin weave. They are called "canvas" because they were originally used for sailing ships. The canvas is rough and stiff, tight and thick, strong and wear-resistant. It is mostly used in men's and women's autumn and winter jackets, jackets, raincoats or down jackets. Due to the difference in the thickness of the yarn used, it can be divided into two types: coarse canvas and fine canvas. Generally, the former is mostly used for covering, filtering, protection, shoes, backpacks, etc.; the latter is mostly used for clothing production, especially after washing and sanding. After processing, it gives the canvas a soft feel and makes it more comfortable to wear.

2Twill fabric

This kind of product is woven with twill or twill weave, and the surface of the fabric shows clear diagonal lines. Compared with plain weave cotton fabric, it has a softer feel, improved gloss, better elasticity and improved wrinkle resistance. Twill fabrics can be woven with different fabric effects when using different tightness, different warp and weft densities, different twill directions, fly numbers, and yarns of different colors.

(1) Twill

twill fabric

The twill weave is a cotton fabric with two upper and lower twill weaves and 45° left twill. The diagonal lines on the front are obvious, with a 45° left diagonal, and the diagonal lines on the reverse are blurry. The counts of warp and weft yarns of twill cloth are similar, the warp density is slightly higher than the weft density, and the hand feel is softer than plain cloth. Twill fabrics are available in plain white, bleached, variegated, and printed types. After bleaching, dyeing or printing, they can be formed into "bleached twill", "variegated twill", and "printed twill". They are often used as uniforms, work clothes, and sportswear. , Student clothes, sports shoes and other clothing materials. The bleached twill can be used as a sheet, and it can also be used as a bed sheet after printing. The primary color and variegated fine twill fabric has a bright surface after electro-optical or calendering, which can be used as umbrella surface and clothing folder.

(2) Khaki

Khaki is a high-density twill fabric among cotton fabrics, and the cloth surface presents fine and clear oblique lines. There are many varieties of khaki fabrics. According to the different yarns used, they can be divided into yarn khaki, thread khaki, and semi-cent khaki. According to different organizational structures, it can be divided into single-sided cards, double-sided cards, herringbone cards, satin cards, etc.

Khaki

Khaki is a kind of twill fabric with high tightness among cotton fabrics. Khaki cloth has the characteristics of tight texture, clear texture, thick feel, crisp and durable. Because the warp density is too tight, the hemming resistance and abrasion resistance are poor, so the neckline, cuffs, and trouser openings of khaki clothes are easy to wear and break. At the same time, due to the compactness of the grey fabric, the fuel is not easy to penetrate into the core of the yarn during the dyeing process, so it is prone to whitening. The commonly used raw materials for khaki are pure cotton, polyester/cotton, cotton/weft and so on.

After dyeing and finishing and special treatment, khaki can be used as spring, autumn and winter outerwear, uniforms, work clothes, military uniforms, windbreakers, raincoats, casual jackets, casual pants and other clothing fabrics.

(3) What about Gadar

Twill gabardine

Gabardine is a traditional item of woolen fabric. Cotton gabardine uses cotton yarn as raw material and is a variety of cotton fabric woven in the style of wool gabardine. Common gabardine is mostly half-thread fabric, that is, thread warp and weft, while yarn gabardine is rare. The gabardine weaves are obvious, the diagonal lines are steep and straight, the texture is thicker but not hard, and the grey fabric must be mercerized and dyed. It feels soft, wear-resistant, not easy to break, and has a luster. Suitable for men's and women's clothing in spring, autumn and winter.

(4) Serge

serge

Serge, like gabardine, was originally a traditional product of wool fabric, which was later transplanted from wool fabric to cotton fabric. According to the different yarns used, it can be divided into yarn serge, half-thread serge, and thread serge. The raw materials used are mainly pure cotton, cotton viscose and viscose. Serge is mostly used for bleaching and dyeing grey cloth, and after dyeing, it is used as cloth for men's and women's clothing and children's hats. Yarn serge is also used for printing, and after processing, it is used as a fabric for women's clothing and children's clothing.

3Satin fabric

The warp or weft of the satin fabric forms some separate, unconnected warp or weft points in the fabric. The cloth surface is almost entirely covered by warp or weft. The warp surface composed of warp floats is called direct tribute. The weft satin composed of weft floats is called Heng Gong. The surface seems to have diagonal lines, but it does not have obvious diagonal lines like the twill weave. Compared with the twill weave, the warp and weft yarns are interwoven less often, with a smooth and bright appearance, and a softer texture. However, the long floating threads in satin weave fabrics are easy to fray, fluff, or the fibers are hooked out. The strength of this type of fabric is lower than that of plain weave and twill fabrics.

(1) Zhigong

Zhigong

Zhi Gong is a pure cotton fabric woven with warp satin weave. Most of the satin weaves and satin weaves are used. The inclination angle of the grain is above 75° is called Zhigong. Since the surface is mostly covered by warp threads, the thick ones have the appearance effect of wool fabrics, so they are also called tribute or straight tributes; the thin ones have the style of satin in silk, so they are called straight satin. The texture of Zhigong is tight and thick, soft to the touch, and the cloth surface is smooth and shiny. According to the different yarns used, it is divided into yarn straight tribute and half thread straight tribute; according to different printing and dyeing processing, it is divided into color straight tribute and flower straight tribute. Generally, it needs to be electro-optical or calendered. The color straight tribute is mainly used as outerwear and shoe fabric; the printed straight tribute is mainly used as the back and clothing fabric. The surface of the straight tribute floats longer, and the surface is easy to fluff when rubbed hard, so it is not suitable for scrubbing.

(2) Henggong

Henggong

Henggong is a high-end product among cotton fabrics, usually made of high-quality fine special yarns and woven with five three-flew satin weaves. Henggong satin yarn is fine and clean, the fabric is tight, the surface is smooth and smooth, the hand feel is soft, the reflection is strong, and it has a silk style, so it is also called the horizontal satin. Mainly used as women's and children's clothing fabrics and interior decoration fabrics. The surface of the cross-gong has a long floating length, poor abrasion resistance, and the cloth surface is easy to fluff, and it is not suitable to scrub hard when washing.