The dyeing and finishing process of textiles is divided into

Pretreatment and dyeing (Dye) - > printing (Print) and finishing (Aftertreatment/Finishedtreatment) the four working procedure as the basic process, depending on different products, processes and different.

1

Before processing

1. Pre-treatment process of cotton cloth

Singing → desizing → bleaching → mercerizing

Sintering: because cotton is short fiber, the product surface has short nap, for the fabric is beautiful and convenient to handle later, should be sintered first.

Desizing: cotton yarn does warp thread, and the machine friction is more, and the friction between cotton yarn and easy to generate static electricity, so before weaving should be sizing, after weaving the pulp will be hard, for a long time will be yellow, moldy, so should be first to sizing, to ensure the smooth process of printing and dyeing and feel soft.

The first two steps are mainly a training process to remove impurities, grease and cotton husks. Go to smeary when still can add to go oil spirit and so on auxiliary agent.

Bleach: To bleach and whiten the fabric by rinsing it. It's the process of drift.

Mercerizing: to make the fabric shine a little better, softer feel.

The process of common cotton cloth and polyester cotton cloth is basically the same (woven cloth)

Singing → desizing → bleaching.

Require a higher level of mercerization. And the bleached cloth is often called natural white cloth.

Process of common cotton cloth and polyester cotton cloth (knitted fabric)

Alkaline shrinkage, scouring, bleaching

Alkali shrinkage: because the knitting thread is not sizing, so it is relatively loose span, alkali shrinkage is relatively tight. Using the balance tension, the surface of the fabric is smooth.

Scrub: with desizing process is similar, mainly to oil, to cotton shell.

Bleaching: Rinse the fabric clean.

The process of Corduroy

This occurs when one yarn is wound around another to form a loop and then the loop is cut to form lint.

Process: alkali rolling → cutting pile → desizing → drying → brushing pile → singeing → scouring → bleaching

The purpose of the alkali rolling is to make the fabric shrink more tightly; The purpose of cutting fleece is to make the fleece surface even. The purpose of brushing is also to smooth the suede surface and remove the roughness after cutting the suede; The purpose of singeing, too, is to get rid of lumps and bumps.

raised

Mainly blankets, children's and old people's underwear, bed sheets, etc. A mace - like roller is used to rotate the carpet surface at high speed to pull out the fibers, which pull out the suede not very neat.

Wool (woolen fabric) process

Cleaning → carbonization → bleaching

Wool washing: because wool and other animal fibers are dirty, it should be washed to remove the remaining impurities (dirt, grease, sweat, impurities, etc.) on the surface.

Carbonization: further removal of impurities and dirt. After washing unclean with acid carbonization, in order to further clean.

Bleaching: Rinse the fabric clean.

3. The working procedure of silk

Degumming to bleaching or whitening (whitening with a whitening agent)

4 polyester cloth

(1) Filament: alkali reduction → bleaching (the same process as silk)

② staple fiber: singeing → boiling → bleaching (the same process as cotton)

Stressing: Stressing increases dimensional stability; To meet the design requirements; The surface is flat.

2

The dyeing process

1 Principles of dyeing

Adsorption: the fiber is high polymer, which is rich in ions, and the dye contains different ions combined, so that the fiber absorbed the dye.

Penetration: dye is colored by pressing or infiltrating dyes into pores in fibers at high temperatures and pressures.

Bonding: there is no dye affinity factor in the fiber molecules, so a binder is added to make the dye stick to the fiber.

2 methods

Fiber dyeing -- color spinning (adding color to spinning yarn, such as snow yarn, fancy yarn)

Yarn dyeing -- Yarn-dyed (yarn-dyed fabric)

Dyeing of piece cloth -- coloring (piece dyeing)

Dyes and spinning materials

① Direct dye -- cotton, linen, wool, silk and viscose (normal temperature dyeing)

Features: the most complete color, the lowest price, the worst fastness, the most simple method.

Formaldehyde as accelerator

Direct dye dyed fabrics are usually added to stabilize the color fastness.

② Reactive dyes

The active groups in dyes are bound to the active groups in cotton, hemp, silk, wool and viscose.

Features: bright color, good evenness, good fastness, but expensive.

③ disperse dye

A special dye for polyester

The dye molecules as small as possible, can penetrate into, at the same time with high temperature, high pressure to promote the dye penetration. Therefore, the color fastness is high.

④ cationic dye

A special dye for acrylic fiber. The acrylic fiber is A negative ion when spinning, and the cation in the dye is absorbed and colored

B polyester with negative ions can be dyed with cationic dyes at room temperature. Is cationic dyed polyester yarn (CDP: Candyepolyester).

⑤ Acid dye

To dye wool.

3

Printing process

Prints are classified according to equipment

Flat screen printing: Flat screen printing with manual plate machine and semi-automatic plate, automatic tablet three, though the flat screen printing production is low, but the process is convenient, take back length, tinted, can print fine decorative pattern, and not the color, printing slurry capacity is much, with stereo feeling, suitable for silk, cotton, chemical fiber woven fabrics and knitted fabrics, such as printing, more suitable for small batch more varieties of high-grade fabric printing.

Round screen printing: Round screen printing is a printing method that uses a scraper to make the color paste in the round screen printed on the fabric under the pressure.

Roller printing: Printing on fabric by means of a copper roller with a concave pattern. Also called copper-roll printing.

Transfer printing: One of the textile printing methods. It began in the late 1960s. A printing process in which a dye is first printed on other materials, such as paper, and then transferred to the fabric by means of hot pressing. It is mainly used for printing of chemical fiber knitwear and clothing. Transfer printing after dye sublimation, swimming, melting, Shan ink layer peeling process.

2. Classification by method

Dye printing: Dyeing with active genes in direct dyes and reactive dyes.

Paint printing: The addition of an additive to a dye to bind the dye to the cloth (there is no cloth and dye affinity gene).

Anti-printing (dyeing) printing: high-grade fabrics for high color requirements, the application of anti-printing to avoid color crossover.

Discharge printing: after fabric dyeing, some places to print other colors, must remove the color of raw materials to expose white, and then print other colors, to prevent color against each other.

Burn out printing: The use of strong alkali to rot off the yarn at the edges of a print to create a fleecy pattern.

Gold (silver) powder printing: Printing on fabric with gold (silver) powder. Actually also belongs to paint printing.

Transfer printing: The dye on the paper sublimates to the cloth after high temperature and pressure to form a pattern.

Spray (liquid) printing: the same principle as the color printer.

4

finishing

1. General collation

Handfeel finishing:

① Hard and firm hand feeling. A large number of cotton, linen

② Soft touch: add softener and water washing

Styling finishing:

1 the stenter

(2) shrinkage: for cotton cloth (washing to shrink) shrinkage in advance to make the future more stable size.

Appearance finishing:

(1) Calendering (calendering) fabric luster, after calendering cloth surface will harden.

The ginning is rolled with a press stick

③ whitening and whitening agent

2 Special treatment

The realization of special treatment method: before the shaping of the corresponding additives, or with the coating machine with the corresponding coating.

Waterproof treatment: apply a layer of waterproof material/coating on the fabric with coating machine; The other is stretching before rolling waterproof additives.

Flame retardant treatment: effect achieved: no open fire, cigarette butts thrown on the fabric to a certain area will automatically extinguish.

Anti-fouling and anti-oil treatment: the principle is the same as waterproof, and the surface is coated with a corresponding layer of material.

Mildew proof and antibacterial treatment: can be coated, ceramic powder can also be used to do the treatment to achieve the effect of anti-enzyme and antibacterial.

Anti-UV: the use of anti-UV in silk is to prevent the destruction of the protein fiber of silk, and make the silk yellow, and other products are anti-UV in the sun. Special noun: UV-cut

Infrared processing: including anti - infrared and absorption of infrared, to achieve different effects.

Antistatic treatment: make the concentrated static electricity dispersed, not easy to generate sparks.